Where It Comes From and Why It Might Be the Best wave.

If you’ve spent any time around surfers—or even just watched a few beachy movies—you’ve probably heard the phrase:
“The 7th wave is the biggest.” It’s a saying passed down through generations of surfers, whispered in surf lineups and woven into ocean folklore. But where does this idea come from? Is there any science behind it? And could the 7th wave really be the best one to catch? Let’s dive in. 🏄‍♂️

🌬️ The Origins: Folklore Meets Observation

The idea of the 7th wave being the biggest isn’t just a surfer’s superstition—it’s a belief that shows up in coastal cultures around the world. From Irish fishermen to Hawaiian watermen, many have claimed that waves arrive in sets, and that the 7th (or sometimes 9th) is the most powerful.

But this wasn’t just poetic storytelling. Early ocean-goers were keen observers of nature. They noticed that waves didn’t arrive randomly—they came in rhythmic sets, with some waves clearly larger than others.

🌊 The Science of Sets

To understand the 7th wave myth, we need to talk about wave interference.

When winds blows across the ocean, it creates waves of different sizes and speeds. These waves travel in groups called wave trains, and when multiple wave trains intersect, they create constructive and destructive interference:

  • Constructive interference: When wave crests align, they combine to form a larger wave.
  • Destructive interference: When a crest meets a trough, they cancel each other out.

This interference creates the set pattern that surfers know so well: a few smaller waves, followed by a few larger ones back to smaller waves, then a lull (a quite spell).

So why the 7th?

Well, there’s no universal law that says the 7th wave is always the biggest—but in many swell conditions, larger waves do tend to appear mid-set, often around the 5th to 8th wave. It depends on the swell period, wind direction, and local bathymetry (the shape of the ocean floor).

In other words: the 7th wave might not always be the biggest, but it often feels like it is—especially when you’re counting with anticipation.

🧠 Why Surfers Still Believe

Even if science doesn’t guarantee a massive 7th wave, the myth persists—and for good reason:

  • It builds rhythm and focus: Counting waves helps surfers stay present and read the ocean.
  • It adds anticipation: Waiting for the 7th wave creates a sense of drama and reward.
  • It’s often true enough: In many surf spots, mid-set waves are consistently the best.

And let’s be honest—there’s something magical about believing the ocean has a rhythm, a pulse, a pattern you can learn to dance with.

If you’re out in the lineup, don’t get too hung up on counting. Instead, watch the horizon. Feel the energy. Notice the patterns. The best surfers aren’t just waiting for the 7th—they’re tuned into the whole set.

But if you do find yourself on the 7th wave, and it just happens to rise a little taller, break a little cleaner, and carry you a little farther…

Well, now you know why. 🌊