Where It Comes From and Why It Might Be the Best wave.
If you’ve spent any time around surfers—or even just watched a few beachy movies—you’ve probably heard the phrase:
“The 7th wave is the biggest.” It’s a saying passed down through generations of surfers, whispered in surf lineups and woven into ocean folklore. But where does this idea come from? Is there any science behind it? And could the 7th wave really be the best one to catch? Let’s dive in. 🏄♂️
🌬️ The Origins: Folklore Meets Observation
The idea of the 7th wave being the biggest isn’t just a surfer’s superstition—it’s a belief that shows up in coastal cultures around the world. From Irish fishermen to Hawaiian watermen, many have claimed that waves arrive in sets, and that the 7th (or sometimes 9th) is the most powerful.
But this wasn’t just poetic storytelling. Early ocean-goers were keen observers of nature. They noticed that waves didn’t arrive randomly—they came in rhythmic sets, with some waves clearly larger than others.
🌊 The Science of Sets
To understand the 7th wave myth, we need to talk about wave interference.
When winds blows across the ocean, it creates waves of different sizes and speeds. These waves travel in groups called wave trains, and when multiple wave trains intersect, they create constructive and destructive interference:
- Constructive interference: When wave crests align, they combine to form a larger wave.
- Destructive interference: When a crest meets a trough, they cancel each other out.
This interference creates the set pattern that surfers know so well: a few smaller waves, followed by a few larger ones back to smaller waves, then a lull (a quite spell).
So why the 7th?
Well, there’s no universal law that says the 7th wave is always the biggest—but in many swell conditions, larger waves do tend to appear mid-set, often around the 5th to 8th wave. It depends on the swell period, wind direction, and local bathymetry (the shape of the ocean floor).
In other words: the 7th wave might not always be the biggest, but it often feels like it is—especially when you’re counting with anticipation.
🧠 Why Surfers Still Believe
Even if science doesn’t guarantee a massive 7th wave, the myth persists—and for good reason:
- It builds rhythm and focus: Counting waves helps surfers stay present and read the ocean.
- It adds anticipation: Waiting for the 7th wave creates a sense of drama and reward.
- It’s often true enough: In many surf spots, mid-set waves are consistently the best.
And let’s be honest—there’s something magical about believing the ocean has a rhythm, a pulse, a pattern you can learn to dance with.
If you’re out in the lineup, don’t get too hung up on counting. Instead, watch the horizon. Feel the energy. Notice the patterns. The best surfers aren’t just waiting for the 7th—they’re tuned into the whole set.
But if you do find yourself on the 7th wave, and it just happens to rise a little taller, break a little cleaner, and carry you a little farther…
Well, now you know why. 🌊
We Can’t Wait to Ride the Waves With You!
The waves are rolling, and even the sun is making an appearance. We are excited because the surf season is officially here in Enniscrone! At 7th Wave Surf School, we’ve been counting down the days, and now, our incredible team of surf instructors is arriving from all over the world. They’re ready to bring their expertise, passion, and love for the ocean to the Irish west coast.
Our Global Team of Wave Riders
One of the things that makes 7th Wave Surf School special is our diverse crew of instructors. This season, we’ve got our seasoned instructors. Faces you might recognize from past Surf Lessons and Surf camps. We’re also welcoming fresh energy, with new instructors from different corners of the globe bringing unique perspectives, techniques, and surfing styles to share with all of you.
From the shores of Australia to the beaches of Morocco and the reefs of the West of Ireland, our surf family is truly international. Whether they’ve been teaching in tropical paradises or braving the icy breaks of northern waters, each instructor carries their own story. Stories shaped by countless hours spent riding waves and coaching students of all levels.
Surf Camps and Lessons—Let’s Get Started!
If you’ve been dreaming of catching your first wave or improving your skills, there’s no better time than now. Our instructors are eager to get into the water with you, offering lessons tailored for complete beginners, advanced surfers, and everyone in between.
If you or your Kids want to take your surf experience up a notch, our surf camps are the perfect way to immerse yourself in the sport. With intensive coaching, guided surf sessions, and a supportive environment. Our instructors push your limits and tailor your session to boost your surfing skills with expert guidance and hands-on instruction. Our surf camps are a great way to gain a deeper connection with the ocean and surf culture.
More info here https://www.surfsligo.com/surf-camps/
More Than Just Surfing
At 7th Wave Surf School, we believe surfing isn’t just about standing up on a surfboard. It’s a lifestyle, an adventure, and a way to connect with nature and people in a truly special way. Whether it’s the thrill of catching a perfect wave, the laughter of wiping out spectacularly, or the friendships built over post-surf coffees and chats, every moment spent in the water counts.
https://www.surfsligo.com/lessons/
As we gear up for an epic season, we’re beyond excited to welcome returning students, new faces, weekend warriors, and lifelong surfers alike. Enniscrone is our home, and we can’t wait to share the magic of its waves with all of you.
So grab your wetsuit, paddle out, and let’s make this surf season unforgettable. See you on the water! 🌊🏄♂️
